Jasmine by Colette- Revisited

I have been promising myself a remake of the Jasmine by Colette for some time now. I first made this last year and loved how, as it’s cut on the bias, it avoids the need for any closure – the inherent stretch meaning it pulls on over the head and yet, hugs the body. I was waiting for the right fabric to come along and I came across this viscose/rayon and loved the colour-way, it has a beautiful hand and feels great next to the skin. The fabric design lent itself to be cut on the bias where the lines of the flowers could be made to form chevrons front back and as luck would have it at the sides! I prefer sleeveless tops generally (swimmers’ shoulders) as I wear a lot of jackets and sleeves can feel constrictive. This fits the bill and I have worn it with, not only suits, but more casually with jeans, a good all round pattern.

                 

Truffle Twosome

Visitors to this blog will know that I have been working my way through The Colette Sewing Handbook  http://www.colettepatterns.com/which has been a real inspiration to me of late. Today I’m featuring the Truffle Dress, which I have to say is a keeper. I have made two so far both in a fine pinstripe wool suiting, one grey and one navy, I’ve been compiling a working wardrobe. I adapted the pattern so I could wear with or without a blouse underneath. I have a real soft spot for pinafores, as they are very versatile achieving a more relaxed look with a cardigan or formal with jacket.

I love the movement of this dress, its so easy to wear and comfortable. I want to make this again in a more lightweight fabric for Spring next year and adapt the neckline and perhaps contrast the top and bottom, maybe without the drape; and with the addition of side pockets, decisions, decisions.

The back with the invisible zip; the inside, on the bodice  I used a black cotton lawn and on the inside skirt a light cupro and finished off the hem with a satin bias binding used flat.  The design sketch – I had intended to put little self fabric bows at the waist, maybe some other time.

Pastille – work shift

As mentioned previously, I am currently working my way through the Colette Sewing Handbook. I have completed three of the five designs to date. The Pastille dress, the Truffle dress (2) and the Taffy blouse. Today I am featuring the Pastille Dress which I cut as a work dress in a nice weight wool and cotton mix suiting, in charcoal (the same fabric is featured in the vintage basic block pattern straight skirt featured with the Jasmine blouse in an earlier post).  I added shoulder pads – move over Roland Mouret! and a self fabric belt – supplies from “A fashionable stitch” check out Sunni’s great blog. I added two tucks to the hemline as opposed to the three that the design called for, as I felt the length was a bit too short for me. I like straight skirts to hit just behind the knee.

I had a number of alterations to the toile as I am shorter in the waist length than most patterns and the swayback alteration is always a factor. The pattern is very easy to follow, which is a feature of the Colette Pattern range and a pleasure to use.

I have posted a pic of the inside of the dress as I am an avid reader of the excellent book “Couture Sewing Techniques” and it puts a lot of emphasis on the finish on the inside of garments. It talks of little “treats” inside which only the wearer will see, for example nicely bound seams and patterned linings etc. This adds to the uniqueness of handmade garments and why they are so special and a pleasure to wear – in  my humble opinion! I have re drafted this pattern onto craft paper as I intend to use it again and again as a casual day dress with either a contrast top and bottom or in linen; inspiration abounds with versatile this little number.